Cooking rabbit with white wine sauce

From time to time, when the weather gets a little cold, I remember my grand mother in our house in the French countryside. When freezing outside, we would all stay home, in the kitchen (it was the warmest room of all) and watch her cook for us. Of course, at the time, no fancy dishes or stuff like this, only what we could get from our own land. She used to have tons of rabbits. Not pets. Rabbit that she was planning on eating at some point. 

The thought of eating rabbit may very well shock some of the readers of this blog. It's a pretty common dish in France, but I do understand why folks may think this is horrible. Rabbits are cute and lovely animals. I won't debate this here. Now, it's the same thing with any food you eat. You have to respect it. If you don't care about what you eat, throw away all of it, cook it poorly, then what the hell? Now, if you do care, show respect and passion, then, at least in my mind, things are a little different. 

When you see a rabbit being killed in the sole purpose of feeding a family, or when you actually have to do it yourself (my grand mother had me do it to make sure i understand why i should always respect my food and the real cost of feeding), then your attitude towards what's in your plate is changing. You understand the painful journey from animal to food. Every time I cook any piece animal, I always think about that (yeah, i basically had to kill myself all sort of animals for food: chicken, ducks, fish etc...). 

So when it was cold outside, my grandmother would kill a rabbit, bring it to the kitchen, and prepare it. I will skip the part where you actually prepare the animal and just focus on the cooking part. It's comfort food, so I won't give you any type of proportions. It has to be done "roughly". 

First of all, ask your butcher to cut the rabbit in 6 pieces. In a big pot (use those nice le creuset ones! they're actually authentic!), mix some canola oil and butter under high heat. Sprinkle your rabbit pieces with salt and pepper, and brown them in the pot. They have to be brown! And be very careful not to steam them by trying to put too many pieces at once. If you can only do 3 at a time, then take the time to do two batches! 

Once it's all brown, transfer the rabbit on a plate and let rest. Throw away the oil from the pot. Deglaze your pot with some balsamic vinegar. Add some butter and then add 1 diced onion and 2 carrots roughly chopped. Cook under medium heat for 10 minutes, until soft and brown. Add some garlic cloves (i usually put at least 6-7 cloves), skinned on, and crushed. A handful of thyme sprigs, some bay leaves, and a tiny bit of rosemary. Mix all this together then lay on top the rabbit pieces. Then add some wine (i do recommend some white burgundy wine like macon villages). The amount of wine really depends on several factors: 1. how much do you like wine? 2. do you want to keep a glass for yourself while cooking? This time, i actually put the whole bottle in my dish! Mix well and let simmer (covered) for a 50 minutes to 1 hour.

At this point, you have to make a decision: do I want to eat this dish now or tomorrow? It's actually better if you're willing to wait for tomorrow, as the meat will then have time to rest in the juices and the braise. But you can also eat it straight away. 

Put the rabbit pieces on a plate and reduce the wine sauce under high heat. You can add some flour to make it a bit thicker if needed. 

I would serve this with fresh pasta as the combination of the pasta and the wine sauce is just phenomenal! 

Enjoy!

Angele Restaurant, Napa

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On Sunday, since the weather wasn't very nice in San Francisco, we drove to Napa and stopped at Angele for lunch, by the Napa river. We've been there once, while we were staying at Milliken Creek Inn, and had a wonderful time.

The expectations were very high...

and I was wondering if our first experience was just lucky or if this place is indeed that good. I haven't heard many people talk about it. Folks are all chatty about Bouchon, or other type of French bistro, but I don't think Angele ever came up in a discussion.

And yet... I rate my lunch there as one of the top 5 meals I had in the last 6 months. Not pretentious, outstanding service, and more important, delicious and tasty food! What more can you ask for? Oh yeah, price... well, most of the entree are between $15 and $19 so I'd put this in the "affordable" category.

My wife and I had scallops to share for a starter. It was a special for the day, and... very yummy! Seared on top (with some syrup that just gave it a great texture!), accompanied by a puree of leeks, cooked perfectly (you know, when it's almost raw inside!). It was splendid. My parents in law had a “Salade Lyonnaise” (Frisée Salad, De Puy Lentils, Poached Egg and Lardons) which they adored as well as a Classic French Onion Soup that triggers lot of questions such as: "how do I make this at home, this is so good!?", which tend to be a very good sign.

For the main, I had hand cut pappardelle with cipollini onions, mushrooms, cavolo nero, and parmigiano reggiano. I loved the fact it wasn't too crowded in my plate (you don't want too much fresh pasta!). On top of that, the tastes were going gangbuster! It was incredible. The combination of the mushrooms and the cavolo nero worked at perfection.

My wife had the salmon, which she loved (pink inside, very crispy outside) and my father in law had the duck confit which he finished in no time (another good sign!).

All in all, I think this is a splendid place for tasty, fresh and simple food. It will become one of my regular place when I go to the wine country for sure. Much more so than Bouchon!

Site: Angele Restaurant

Harri's, Steakhouse, San Francisco

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Yesterday, we took my parents in law at Harri's, at the corner of Pacific and Van Ness. Harri's is a classis San Francisco establishment, and above all, a real steakhouse.

As all good steakhouse, the entrance showcases the aged meat and also has a butcher counter in case you want to buy some meat to go. I've seen this in many other steakhouses, and I really like the idea.


There are three main rooms. The Van Ness room, which is the main room. Very elegant, comfortable, it is very traditional and very San Francisco. I had dinner there a few times, and always had a good time. There are two other rooms. The library, which is where we had dinner yesterday, and another more casual one. The library is very intimate, as there are only 4-5 tables, a big painting of Mr Harris (i assumed it has to do with the restaurant!) and a fire place. It's much more quiet than the main room even though the air conditioning is a little bit too strong in my opinion.

We had New York steak, Rib Eye steak and a Prime Rib of Beef. It's the first time i've seen my parents in law eating the whole thing, without leaving a piece of meat in their plate! Quite impressive. I concluded they really liked it.

On my side, I had the Prime Rib and I have to say, it was delicious. Perfectly cooked, which is what those steak houses are really good at. I've asked for medium rare, and I got medium rare! The quality of the meat was really good - tender, tasty... all you can ask from a piece of meat!

The vegetables were also perfectly cooked. Crispy and not over cooked as in most restaurants. Finally, the wine list is huge, and you will definitely find your happiness in there. I picked a Ridge Zinfandel (my parents in law never had Zin before). You can't go wrong with Ridge. The combination of the wine and the meat just made this meal perfect.

Of course, Harri's is not cheap. I couldn't go there every time I want a piece of meat (a steak will cost you roughly $45)! But for a special occasion, it's a great place to try. Enjoy!